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When assembling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred names. Yet, tucked high among these culinary giants is a simple salonu located in a outlying part of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

The little Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. This honour has left the owners completely astonished.

“I am utterly surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, referring to his family’s hard graft that led to their humble place securing such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its former feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment more than delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

It is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate beyond its own walls. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this culinary honour.