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Whenever curating a list of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate renowned high-end venues. But, tucked high among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

The small Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. This accolade has made the owners completely surprised.

“I am utterly astonished,” says a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their small shop achieving such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the cuisine, and this eatery more than succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent texture.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can start at many times that price.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.