The fashion icon Edward Enninful discusses Modern Britain: 'A Decline in Tolerance' Compared to the Nineties.
A serendipitous meeting on the London Underground in 1988 altered the path of a young Ghanaian newcomer to Britain. Discovered for modeling, Edward Enninful was quickly drawn into the London's buzzing 1990s creative scene, progressing from model to stylist and, by the age of 18, becoming the fashion director of i-D magazine.
"It was the peak of the Britart scene – Tracey Emin, Jay Jopling. I met Kate Moss at a casting," he recalls. "Then Naomi Campbell for a cover, and I understood we’d be great friends. We all mixed across disciplines. Friday became Saturday into Sunday. I yearn for that rawness."
If Enninful sounds wistful, he is far from alone. Recently, a fond idealisation of the 1990s has grown intense. Yet over the last thirty years, Enninful believes a noticeable regression. "In my view, we’re less tolerant now than we were in the 90s," he says. "The issue extends beyond this country – it’s a global phenomenon."
Shifting Attitudes
This regression is hard to ignore: the resurgence of far-right politics, the reaction against so-called "wokeness", and the reassertion of traditional beauty standards. Replacing the hope of the previous decade, currently a different political figure stands as a potential leader. Furthermore, the British flag, once an badge of national pride, has returned as a polarising symbol.
For Enninful, the antidote has always been to promote culture in all its multifaceted forms. This was the guiding principle behind his seminal issue as editor of British Vogue in 2017, which served as a celebration of modern Britain, showcasing a diverse array of cultural icons from literature.
"Those in a position of influence should wield it," he says, explaining those publishing choices. "Everyone talks about immigration; I wouldn't be here if Britain was not a welcoming country, if it hadn't given my family a refuge and an education. That’s the Britain I cherished. I hope this moment will fade."
A New Wave of Consciousness
He takes comfort in the youth of today: "They are far more conscious than we were. They analyse unconscious bias – I had no concept what that was."
His formative years would define a groundbreaking career built on boldness and inclusivity. Enninful made history as the first man, first black man, first openly gay person, and first disabled gay man of colour to lead at British Vogue. His time featured historic front pages showcasing Black models, curvy models, older individuals, and people from varied communities. Critically, sales grew.
"When you ignore large portions of the population, it’s not just that you’re excluding people – it’s commercially unwise," he states.
A New Chapter as a 'Disruptor'
He has since founded his agency EE72 and its accompanying magazine, 72, his first major project since leaving his former post. He states his aim to continue being a "change-maker".
"My nature is to challenge the conventional wisdom. I was born and raised in a place where everybody was black – the doctors, the attorneys, the president. Then we came to England, with nothing, and I found myself on the margins. I was painfully reserved. My teachers predicted I’d achieve nothing. Me and my brothers were subject to police stops the Sus laws … those experiences gave me a dual identity between worlds."
Contrary to the stereotype of fashion editors as brash and temperamental, Enninful is softly spoken and projects peace. His journey has included its share of hardship, including openly discussed battles with mental health and addiction.
He has also undergone significant health issues, having had multiple operations on his eyes, now leaving him with partial sight. "I experienced such a time of fear for two years, away from work, terrified I was going to lose my sight. It’s comparable to PTSD; you just live in fear 24/7. I thought, if this ever ends, I’m just going to embrace every opportunity that I was so fearful to do. I’m not going to confine myself to just being an editor or a fashion person."
A Foray into Curation
This determination to fit into a box has inspired him away from the realm that made his name. He is now curating a seminal 1990s exhibition at Tate Britain, featuring work by a group of defining artists and photographers from the era. The show, he says, aims to capture the decade's artistic collaboration – and highlight those who lacked due recognition at the time.
"The establishment sometimes neglected to shine a light on the most relevant talents because they did not have the traditional credentials," he states.
This project itself functions with a novel business model, forgoing traditional advertising in favour of integrated partnerships. "Our approach is, what can we do together? Is it an event, a series? The magazine is part of a greater ecosystem."
Looking Forward Without Fear
Today, Enninful stands as one of the world's most respected cultural influencers. His journey, he feels, is a testament to the power of defying expectations.
What would the younger Edward make of the his current self? He laughs heartily. "He’d be in shock, but he’d be impressed. Back then I was a rebel. I would not have believed institutions like Tate were a place for someone like me."
He pauses. "I never take anything for granted. We lost our home, we left our homeland. I nearly lost my vision. So fear isn't an option. People have counted me out my whole career. But I am unstoppable once I’ve decided to do something."